Every Flexi Networks customer has an account in our client portal, where invoices, payments, package details and account information live in one place.

This guide explains how your account is created, how to log in the first time and what you can do once you’re in.

How your account is created

You don’t need to register yourself. We create your account when your order is approved, using the details you supplied during the coverage and quotation process. Shortly after installation you’ll receive a welcome email containing your customer number and portal login details.

Your customer number is worth noting down. It appears on every invoice and is the fastest way for our support team to find your account when you call or log a fault.

Logging in for the first time

1. Find your welcome email. It arrives from us shortly after your service is activated. Check your spam folder if it isn’t in your inbox — first-time messages from a new sender are often filtered.
2. Open the client portal. The link is in the welcome email and in the navigation bar at the top of this website.
3. Enter your login details exactly as supplied. Passwords are case-sensitive. Type it rather than copying and pasting, in case a trailing space is included.
4. Change your password immediately. Choose something strong and unique that you don’t use anywhere else.
5. Check your contact details are correct. Particularly your email address and mobile number — these are how we reach you about maintenance, outages and invoices.

What you can do in the portal

• View and download invoices. Your full billing history, available any time.
• Check your balance and payment status. See what’s been received and what’s outstanding.
• See your package details. Confirm exactly what you’re subscribed to and what speeds it includes.
• Update your contact information. Keep your email and phone number current so notifications reach you.
• Review your service history. Installation date, package changes and account activity.

Keeping your account secure

• Use a unique password that isn’t reused from another service.
• Never share your portal login. We will never ask you for your password.
• If you think your account has been accessed by someone else, contact us immediately and we’ll reset it.
• Keep your registered email address current — account recovery depends on it.

Who can make changes

For security, changes to package, billing details, account ownership or cancellation must come from the registered account holder. If you’d like someone else — a spouse, office manager or family member — authorised to act on the account, contact us and we’ll add them formally.

Your installation is booked and a technician is on the way. This guide covers what happens on the day, what we need from you, and the handful of things worth doing in the first hour after your connection goes live.

None of it is complicated, but getting these details right at the start saves a surprising amount of frustration later.

Before the technician arrives

A little preparation makes the installation faster and gives you a better result. Five minutes of thought now determines where your equipment lives for the next several years.

1. Decide roughly where the router should live. The best spot is central in the home, out in the open and above waist height — not in a cupboard, not behind the TV and not on the floor in a corner. Signal is absorbed by walls, furniture and appliances, so a central position genuinely matters.
2. Make sure there’s a power point nearby. Both the router and, on fibre installations, the ONT need mains power. A double socket in the chosen spot is ideal.
3. Clear access to the route. Our technician may need to reach the outside wall, the roof space or a distribution point. Move anything blocking the way and secure any pets.
4. Arrange for someone over 18 to be present. Somebody needs to authorise cable routes, agree where equipment is mounted and sign the handover. If it can’t be you, nominate someone in writing.
5. Have your ID and account details to hand. We verify the account holder before activating the service.

What happens on installation day

A typical residential installation takes between one and three hours depending on the property and the technology. Our technician will:

• Confirm the plan with you and agree exactly where the cable runs and where the equipment is mounted, before drilling anything.
• Install the external infrastructure — either the fibre drop cable, or the wireless antenna aligned to our nearest tower.
• Mount and power the ONT or wireless radio inside, in the position you have agreed.
• Connect and configure your router, and set up your Wi-Fi network name and password.
• Test the line, confirm the speed and check the signal reaches the rooms you need it in.
• Walk you through the equipment and hand over your Wi-Fi details before leaving.

The first hour after go-live

1. Write down your Wi-Fi name and password. Keep it somewhere you’ll find it in six months — not only on a sticker that will be dusty and unreadable by then.
2. Change the default Wi-Fi password. The password on the router sticker is fine to start with, but a password only you know is better. See changing your Wi-Fi password.
3. Connect your main devices. Phones, laptops, the TV and anything else you use daily. Our device guide covers the awkward ones.
4. Run a speed test on a cable. Plug a laptop directly into the router and run a test. Note the result — it’s a useful baseline if you ever suspect a problem later.
5. Walk around with your phone. Check the signal in the rooms that matter. If somewhere is weak, tell us now while everything is fresh rather than living with it.
6. Save our contact details. Add our support number and WhatsApp to your phone so they’re there when you need them.

Set up your account access

Your client portal account lets you view invoices, check your balance, see payment history and update your details. Your welcome email contains your login details; if you can’t find it, contact our team and we’ll help you get in.

It’s worth logging in during the first week rather than waiting until you urgently need something from it.

If something isn’t right

Occasionally something needs adjusting after installation — a room with weak signal, a device that won’t connect, or speeds that don’t look right. Tell us early. Issues raised in the first few days are much easier for us to resolve, because everything about your installation is still fresh in our records.

If none of this resolves the problem, log a fault with our technical team and we’ll take it from there.

Your router is the most important piece of equipment in your home network, and where you put it has more effect on your everyday experience than almost anything else.

This guide covers connecting it correctly and choosing a position that gives you the best possible coverage.

Where to put it

Wi-Fi radiates outwards in every direction and is absorbed by whatever it passes through. The ideal position is central, high and in the open.

1. Central in the home, not at one end. A router in the corner of the house wastes half its signal on the garden. Somewhere near the middle of the area you want covered is far better.
2. Chest height or higher. On a shelf or table rather than on the floor. Signal spreads outwards and downwards more readily than upwards.
3. Out in the open. Not inside a cupboard, TV cabinet or drawer. Enclosed spaces absorb a great deal of signal and trap heat, which shortens the equipment’s life.
4. Away from metal and water. Fridges, geysers, metal cabinets, mirrors and aquariums block Wi-Fi effectively. Concrete and face-brick walls are also difficult.
5. At least a metre from other electronics. Microwaves, cordless phones and baby monitors interfere with 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi.

Understanding the ports

Connecting everything up

1. Place the router in position first. Move it before you connect anything, rather than after.
2. Connect the internet feed. Run the network cable from your ONT or wireless radio into the router’s WAN or Internet port. It should click.
3. Connect power to the ONT first. On fibre installations, power the ONT and give it two full minutes to establish its connection before powering the router.
4. Power on the router. Allow one to two minutes for it to start fully. The lights will change several times during boot — this is normal.
5. Check the lights. Power and internet indicators should be solid, and the Wi-Fi indicator lit. See the table below.
6. Connect a device and test. Join the Wi-Fi network printed on the router label, then load a website to confirm.

What the router lights mean

Looking after it

• Leave it switched on. Routers are designed to run continuously and reconnecting repeatedly is harder on them than staying up.
• Keep the vents clear. Heat is the main cause of premature router failure. Don’t stack anything on top of it.
• Restart it occasionally. A reboot every month or two clears accumulated memory issues.
• Keep it out of direct sunlight and away from damp.
• Use a surge-protected socket. Power surges are one of the more common causes of equipment failure.

If none of this resolves the problem, log a fault with our technical team and we’ll take it from there.

Most devices connect to Wi-Fi in the same three steps: find the network, enter the password, done. This guide covers those basics and then the devices that are less straightforward.

The standard process

1. Open the device’s Wi-Fi settings. On phones this is under Settings; on computers it’s the network icon in the taskbar or menu bar.
2. Find your network name. It’s printed on the router label unless you’ve changed it. If you see two similar names, one ending in “-5G” is the faster 5 GHz band.
3. Enter the password exactly. Wi-Fi passwords are case-sensitive. Watch for the classic confusions: capital I versus lowercase l, and zero versus the letter O.
4. Wait for it to connect. A few seconds is normal. If it says “connected, no internet”, the password worked but something further up isn’t — check the router lights.

Smart TVs and streaming boxes

TVs are usually the heaviest consumers of bandwidth in a home and are often the furthest from the router.

• Use a cable if the TV is near the router. An Ethernet cable is more reliable than Wi-Fi and removes the TV from your wireless airspace entirely.
• Otherwise prefer 5 GHz if the TV supports it and is within reasonable range.
• Entering the password on a TV remote is tedious. Many TVs let you use a phone app instead — check the manufacturer’s app.
• If streaming buffers, reduce the streaming quality setting first as a test. If that fixes it, the issue is bandwidth or signal rather than the app.

Games consoles

• Cable is strongly preferred. Online gaming is far more sensitive to latency and jitter than to raw speed, and a cable eliminates both problems.
• Schedule game updates overnight. Modern games download tens of gigabytes; running that during the evening will affect everyone else in the house.
• If gaming feels laggy but speeds test fine, the issue is latency rather than bandwidth — see high latency and lag.

Smart-home devices

Smart plugs, bulbs, doorbells, cameras and speakers are the most common source of “it won’t connect and I don’t know why”.

• Most only support 2.4 GHz. If your router presents both bands under one name, you may need to temporarily disable 5 GHz during setup, or connect your phone to the 2.4 GHz network first.
• Set them up close to the router, then move them to their final position once connected.
• They need a stable, not fast, connection. A smart plug uses almost no bandwidth — but it does need consistent signal.
• Security cameras are the exception. Cameras uploading continuously can consume a significant share of your upload capacity. Check the resolution settings if you have several.

Visitors and guests

Rather than sharing your main Wi-Fi password with everyone who visits, set up a guest network. Visitors get internet access without reaching your computers, printers or network storage, and you never have to change your main password because too many people know it. See setting up guest Wi-Fi.

When a device refuses to connect

1. Forget the network and rejoin. On the device, choose “forget this network”, then connect again from scratch. This clears a saved password that may be out of date.
2. Restart the device. Genuinely fixes a surprising proportion of cases.
3. Check whether other devices work. If everything else is fine, the problem is that device rather than your network.
4. Move closer to the router. If it connects nearby but not in its usual spot, it’s a coverage problem — see improving your Wi-Fi signal.
5. Check the device limit. Some routers cap the number of simultaneous connections. If you have thirty devices, you may have reached it.
6. Restart the router. Unplug for 30 seconds and try again once it’s fully up.

If none of this resolves the problem, log a fault with our technical team and we’ll take it from there.